Big and beautiful

For larger Irish brides finding a wedding dress that flatters can be difficult. It's easy to be swayed by the latest fashions, but sometimes these don't do the fuller figure any favours. Audrey Watson investigates the most flattering styles and shapes for curvy brides-to-be...

With more than half of modern women measuring a size 16 plus, it's surprising that the fashion world (including the bridal industry) still concentrate on clothes for the very slim.

Every bride no matter what her shape or size wants to look beautiful and be the centre of attention on her big day and with a little consideration for what suits your body shape and careful shopping, even the largest of girls can find their dream dress.

However, before you set foot in a shop or start browsing magazines however, there are a few general rules that when followed will help you look your very best:

*Fuller figure brides should choose clothes with simple lines that skim the body rather than hugging it – simple lines create a slimming effect.

*Strapless numbers are generally not a good idea, especially if you are small in stature. 'Over bulge' will always be a problem for curvy girls with this style, not to mention the attention drawn to the upper arms. It's not an impossible style to wear, however. Team a strapless dress with a shrug or chiffon bolero with three quarter, fitted sleeves and it can look fantastic.

Dresses with wider straps will have a slimming effect on shoulders and upper arms.

*A good rule (for brides of all shapes and sizes) is, don't leave anything uncovered unless it looks fantastic. This applies especially to arms.

Loose, three-quarter or long-sleeved boleros and chiffon or lace cardigans can look amazing, as can glamorous shawls and shrugs. All these allow the fuller-figured bride to wear strapless or spaghetti straps with confidence.

*Huge ruffles and multi-tiered skirts should be avoided at all costs as these add width.

*Asymmetrical details on the front of a dress direct focus away from 'problem' areas and can slim the figure. Details on the bust and hem can also draw interest away from these areas.

*Don't rule out ruching and gathering. Both can emphasise curves and actually have a slimming effect if kept minimal and flat. Angled ruching and gathering can be very complimentary.

*Think of your bouquet. A small arrangement will exaggerate width and make you look larger, whereas a larger bouquet will have a slimming effect. An elongated or 'cascading' bouquet will add length and height to your appearance and balance out proportions.

*For shoes, follow this basic rule: The chunkier the leg, the chunkier the heel. Avoid ankle straps as these 'sever' legs at the ankle and make them look shorter.

CURVY ALL OVERCurvy girls with an hourglass shape are very lucky in that if they have the confidence and are not small in height, they can pull off almost any shape of wedding dress and should highlight their natural curvaceousness. However, don't 'over-egg the pudding' and go too sexy – nature has already bestowed that virtue.

And make sure your chest will be suitably supported in your dress, either with structure built into the bodice of the garment, or by boned corsetry or a good bra.

Go for: Mermaid, A-line, fish tail or bias cut dresses. V-necks, wrap over and sweetheart necklines all look great on a fuller figure, as do wider shoulder straps.

Unless you are very small, sleeves look particularly good on curvy girls. A tailored short sleeve can draw attention away from the hips and bum, balancing your body if you are pear-shaped. They can also square-up rounded shoulders. Go for loose fitting long sleeves to disguise flabby upper arms. However, if you have very broad shoulders, this style will emphasise them.

Avoid: Huge ball gown and ballerina dresses – the full skirt will over emphasise curvy hips – and column or straight dresses which will also make hips look bigger.

Also be wary of strapless or spaghetti-strapped dresses, as these can be very unforgiving on larger girls unless teamed with a wrap or shrug. Opt for wide straps unless you are petite in height. A good support bra in the correct size is a must to make the most of this shape.

BIG ON TOP

If you have a big bust, support really is everything. While there is no need to hide your natural assets, your wedding is not the place to flaunt them. The underwear you choose will be as important (almost) as your dress. Have a professional bra fitting to make sure you are wearing the right size and make sure you are wearing a really supportive and good quality bra when you go to shop for wedding dresses, so you have an idea of what your chest will look like on the day.

After you have found your dream dress, make finding the perfect bra your next mission. As you will be wearing it all day (and probably evening as well), it needs to be comfortable around the back and chest as well as the straps.

One advantage of a big bust is that it balances big bottoms, tums and hips. Make the most of it with a dress fitted at the waist. Also, detail at the waist area of your dress will draw attention away from your boobs and hips.

Go for: A-line and V-neck gowns look stunning on large girls with big busts and also give you the chance to show off fabulous jewellery. Even if you are a larger girl with minimal cleavage, a good uplift, padded bra can create a gorgeous silhouette. The angle of the V can be on or off the shoulder. So, if you have beautiful shoulders don't be afraid to show them.

Although halter neck dresses provide great support, avoid unless you have toned arms – although this style can disguise that dreaded underarm 'pouch'. Also halter necks draw attention to the hips and bust. Sweetheart necklines also flatter.

Full skirt, ballerina, mermaid (with full straps) or ball gown dresses are worth considering. Curvy girls with large chests can often carry these off as the larger top balances the bottom.

Avoid: Anything high-necked – these will make your chest look huge and out of proportion. Strapless or spaghetti straps should be approached with caution, unless the neck and arms are well toned and the bust firmly supported. The 'double bust' is a common problem with this style. If you have a very large bust – don't even go there.

APPLES AND PEARS

Apple or pear shape figures are the most difficult shapes to accommodate. Pear-shaped bodies can often be one or two sizes larger from the waist down, so it's vital your dress adds width and balance to the top half of your body.

Apples tend to carry their weight around the middle and have larger busts and waists. However both these body shapes can be flattered by the same style of wedding gown – and underwear. As well as a great supporting bra, big pants – especially if they are body shaping – can make you look fantastic. But make sure they are comfortable when sitting down, eating and dancing.

The most important thing apples and pears must remember when choosing their wedding dress is don't go too tight around the middle and bum. Not a good look and not very comfortable.

Go for: A-line and empire line dresses that float over the hips, belly and bum. Empire dresses in particular flatter – especially if you have a small bust. If you have a good neck and décolleté, look at spaghetti or slim strapped dresses to draw attention away from your lower half. If arms are a worry, compliment with a delicate bolero or shawl.

Avoid: Anything ball gown shaped or full skirted. Column dresses should also be left well alone, as they will give apples and pears a 'tube-like' appearance. Mermaid dresses will also emphasise large hips, tums and bums.

PETITE AND CURVY

Petite brides need to ensure that their wedding dress doesn't wear them – especially if they are on the curvy side. Small women can disappear into big and bold dresses and long sleeves and very full, long skirts can make you look out of proportion.

Petite brides can look fantastic in straight sheath dresses. Unlike the column dress the sheath isn't clingy and flatters and elongates a curvier body, making up for the lack of height with a sexy sophistication. Also remember not to overdo it with details. Heavy beading and jewellery can engulf rather than enhance.

Another good rule of thumb is to look for a gown that has a natural waist, rather than a drop waist that can distort your proportions. And consider a short dress that falls just below the knee. As well as a shift shape, a full short skirt can also flatter small brides.

The same goes for headwear: Shorter brides tend to get lost beneath poufy cathedral-length veils, best to wear for chapel or elbow-length versions.

Go for: Necklines that are, sweetheart, wrap, scoop or V-neck and skirts that are narrow or very gently flared. If you prefer tradition, then opt for an A-line or princess silhouette. Necklines aren't as limiting - play up pretty shoulders with a bateau neck and show off toned arms in a sleeveless scoop. If you have small shoulders and a big bust, short, tailored sleeves can help balance this. Empire line dresses can also give an illusion of length.

Avoid: Long sleeves – they will make your arms look longer and out of proportion. If you don't want to show your arms, opt for a shawl or shrug. Full skirted long, dresses can swamp and loud, statement jewellery will distract. If your dress has a pattern, keep it to a minimum and keep embellishment and ruffles to the middle or at the hips on one side.